Odongdo: So Many Legends Packed Into One Name

Hey Yeosu folks, it's Sudal. Today I want to talk about Odongdo. If you're from around here, you've probably visited at least once, but ask anyone why it's called Odongdo and most people just tilt their heads. I did the same thing at first, so let's unpack that curiosity together today. It's nothing too complicated, so just follow along. It'd be a shame to just glance at the camellias and move on without hearing the story behind this island — once you know it, Odongdo might look a little different next time you go.

An island that doesn't quite feel like an island

Odongdo is a small island just off the coast of Yeosu. These days, though, you can simply walk over to it — a breakwater, what's called a yukgyedo or land-tied island, now connects it to the mainland. So first-time visitors often aren't sure whether it even counts as an island. It's not exactly a bridge, and it's not quite the mainland either, but as you walk, you suddenly realize you're already on the island, which is part of the fun. For a lot of first-time visitors to Yeosu, that walk itself is already a sight worth seeing — with the sea on both sides, it's a pretty great way to start the trip. Strolling along with the sound of the waves tends to slow your mind right down.

Once you cross that walkway onto the island, the first thing that greets you is the camellias. More than anything else, it's the camellias that made this little island famous — Odongdo and camellias go hand in hand, and the whole island is ringed with camellia trees. They start blooming toward the end of winter, and by the time they hit their peak, the whole island is said to look flushed red. That peak is said to fall roughly around February to March, and plenty of people make a special trip to Yeosu just for it. These days a lot of visitors ride in on the small tourist tram known as the 'camellia train' instead of walking, which is a handy option for elders or families with kids. Whether you walk or ride, once you're on the island you'll find the same tunnel of camellia shade either way, so don't worry too much about which one to pick. Trying not to step on the camellia blossoms that have dropped onto the path is its own little bit of fun. Catch a glimpse of the blue sea peeking through the red petals here and there, and you might find yourself just standing there, losing track of time.

So why is it called Odongdo, anyway?

Now for the question we actually came here for. Where the name Odongdo came from isn't settled as one confirmed fact — it's really just a handful of stories passed down. Ask around and nobody gives you one clean answer. But each of the stories sounds plausible enough on its own, which almost makes the mystery more fun. So don't stress about pinning down the one right answer — just relax and enjoy it like listening to a good story.

The story you hear most is that the island used to be covered in paulownia trees — called 'odong' in Korean — which is how it got its name. Another version says the island's very shape resembles a paulownia leaf. Both sound plausible, but there's no way to say for sure which one is right. Honestly, having more than one story attached to the name only makes Odongdo more intriguing to me. If there were just one tidy answer, it might actually be a little less interesting. Whether it's the trees or the leaf shape, a bit of this island's old self seems to be tucked inside its name either way.

There's a story tied to Admiral Yi Sun-sin, too

You can't talk about Odongdo without mentioning Admiral Yi Sun-sin. It's said that he used the island as a training ground for archery, or for signaling and scouting duty. Sitting right out in the sea the way it does, it does seem like a fitting spot both for keeping watch over approaching ships and for sharpening one's archery.

But it's worth being upfront that these are stories passed down as legend and oral tradition, not documented, settled facts. They've been carried mouth to mouth over a long stretch of time down to today. Still, the fact that these stories exist at all makes me feel like Odongdo wasn't just a pretty island — it was a place that once helped watch over Yeosu's waters. Most people come these days just to see the flowers, but back then, this island might have been quietly doing its part too. Just knowing that alone makes the island feel a little weightier to me.

A story that outlasts even the camellias

Looking at it all together, Odongdo turns out to be an island with quite a few layers. On the surface it's a pretty island bursting with red camellias, but tucked inside it is an old riddle over a name that was never quite settled, plus Admiral Yi Sun-sin's footsteps resting on it like legend. If you go for the flowers and end up learning these stories too, that same camellia path might start to look a little different. Next time you visit Odongdo, try slowing your steps and picturing these stories one by one as you walk. It'll probably turn into a trip that stays with you a lot longer than usual. The camellias fade once the season passes, but the stories tied to this island don't seem to know a season.

🦦 Real Photos, via Sudal