From Yi Sun-sin Square to Mural Village, Walking's the Only Way to Do It Right

There's one mistake almost everyone makes on their first visit to Yeosu's old town: trying to drive the car into every last alley. The streets around Yi Sun-sin Square are old and narrow, and on weekends you can burn half a day just hunting for a parking spot. I've lived in Yeosu for fifty years, and in this neighborhood, two feet beat four wheels every time. Set Yi Sun-sin Square as your one starting point, and you can walk to Jinnamgwan, the Turtle Ship, the mural village, and the food street — all on foot. Today I'll walk you through that half-day route, step by step. All you need is one thing: comfortable shoes. It's just a few minutes on foot from the square to Jinnamgwan, and a few more from there to the Turtle Ship, so there's no need to rush — just stroll along like you're sightseeing the city.

Start at Yi Sun-sin Square — Just Lace Up Tight

The starting point of this route is always Yi Sun-sin Square, no question about it. The square sits right in the heart of Yeosu's old town, so every alley branching out from it leads to something worth seeing or eating. There's a tourist information center near the square too, so if it's your first time here, I'd grab a map before you set off. Stand in the square and a gust of sea air hits you right away — that's the true face of Yeosu's old town. Head out early in the morning and you'll catch the market vendors opening up for the day, which makes you feel like you're meeting Yeosu's everyday life before the tourists do. From here on, you can forget about the car entirely. It's just a few minutes' walk to Jinnamgwan, a few more to the Turtle Ship, and continuing on to the mural village and the food street isn't much of a haul either. There's a bit of a hill, but between the low rooftops and narrow alleys unique to the old town, you'll arrive before you know it. It's an easy walk holding a child's hand, and just as good taking it slow with an elderly parent. There are sights tucked into every corner of these alleys that you'd never catch rushing by in a car. If your legs start to ache, just sit for a bit on a bench at the mouth of an alley or in the shade under a wall. This is the kind of neighborhood where taking it slow like that never feels out of place.

Jinnamgwan and the Turtle Ship — All Within Walking Distance

Walk just a short way up from the square and you'll reach Jinnamgwan. It's an old building that still holds traces of the Joseon-era navy and Admiral Yi Sun-sin — the scale of it is so large that standing in the courtyard naturally slows your steps. Look up at the rows of wooden pillars lined up in front of you, and it really hits you that this was once a place that guarded the sea. The steps by the entrance are a good spot to sit and catch your breath for a moment. In summer, the shade under the eaves is cool, perfect for cooling off after you've worked up a sweat walking. Head down from Jinnamgwan toward the sea and you'll come to the Turtle Ship — a full-size replica floating on the water that looks far bigger and sturdier up close than you'd expect. Kids go a little wild taking photos here, and even adults find themselves reaching for their cameras the moment they stand in front of the bow. Jinnamgwan and the Turtle Ship are close enough to pair together before moving on to the next alley. There's also fun to be had leaning in close to look at the dragon-head carving on the bow.

From the Mural Village to the Food Street — Forget About Parking

Past the Turtle Ship, turn into the alleys heading up the hill and you'll reach Opodae Mural Village. Paintings cover the low walls and narrow stairways at every turn, so there's never a dull moment for your eyes as you walk. It's an old residential area to begin with, with low roofs and winding alleys, and once color gets added on top, the whole atmosphere changes completely. Part of the fun of walking this village is that every time you climb a set of stairs and look back, the sea comes into view a little wider than before. Since the local elders still keep potted plants out along these alleys, you can feel the scent of real everyday life mixed in among the paintings. Don't rush just to snap photos — stop and look back at every landing instead. There's a stretch where the sea peeks out between the rooftops, and that's the best spot in the whole village. Coming down from the mural village leads straight into the food street. Mention Yeosu and most people think first of soy-marinated crab or seodae-hoe-muchim (spicy raw flounder salad), and this stretch of alleys has plenty of old, established places serving just that. Many of them stay busy well past lunchtime, so if you're getting hungry, I'd recommend filling up here. Even just a side of gat-kimchi (mustard leaf kimchi) makes the meal taste unmistakably like Yeosu. Parking is the one thing people who try to drive around this neighborhood always end up regretting. The old town has narrow, old streets, so parking space is never generous. Better to leave the car near the square for a bit and walk the rest, or just come by public transit from the start — it's much less of a headache. Since the whole route is walkable anyway, forget the car and trust your own two feet. Even a lifelong local like me always walks this particular neighborhood, and there's a reason for that. Rather than circling the alleys over and over hunting for a parking spot, you'll save both your peace of mind and a lot of time by just lacing up your shoes tight from the start.

🦦 Real Photos, via Sudal