Y'all Seen All of Yeosu? Bet You Haven't Boated Out to Geumodo

There are islands around Yeosu that no bridge reaches. Most tourists ride the cable car out to Odongdo, swing by Hyangiram, and call it a trip — sticking to the mainland loop the whole time. Me, I prefer the places fewer feet reach. An island you can only get to by boat: Geumodo. Part of Namyeon in Yeosu, this island is known for its dense forest and jagged sea rocks, and the cliffside trail winding through them — Bireong-gil — is the real treasure. 'Bireong' is the local Yeosu dialect word for a cliff, and true to its name, the trail hugs a sheer drop toward the sea the whole way. Put in just a little effort to catch a boat, and you'll find the most Yeosu-like scenery Yeosu has to offer. Let me take you there today.

A Trip That Starts With Boarding a Boat

Geumodo isn't connected to the mainland by any bridge, so you have to take a ferry in. That means this isn't the kind of trip where you drive up, look around, and leave, like Odongdo or Dolsan Park. In exchange, the nature here stays that much less touched by human hands. The moment you step off the ferry, you're met with dense forest and jagged rock. It's a rougher, more dramatic landscape than the gentle coastlines you see on the mainland. You can feel exactly why this island is considered the pinnacle of Yeosu's island trips the second you step off the boat. The trip really starts on the ferry itself — people from the mainland tend to stand at the bow, watching the island grow closer.

Bireong-gil is a trekking trail that runs along this island's cliff coastline. With dense forest on one side and dizzying cliffs and sea on the other, walking it becomes the whole point — not a means to somewhere else. This isn't the kind of spot where you snap a few photos and turn back; you need two or three hours of walking to really get what makes it special. It's not somewhere to stamp off a checklist in a hurry — it's a place that asks for a whole day set aside for it. First-timers sometimes say the path along the cliffside looks precarious, but walking it, you'll find sections sheltered by forest alternate with sections that open up wide, giving the whole walk a surprisingly steady rhythm.

Forest and Cliff, Two Faces in One Trail

What makes Geumodo special is how forest and sea take turns within a single course. Walk for a while under dense forest and shade, and suddenly the view opens up — jagged sea rocks and deep blue water spread out in front of you. That dramatic switch is the biggest thrill of walking Bireong-gil. You cool off sweat in the shade, then pick up the pace again the second you're facing the cliff. It's a different feeling from mountain trails on the mainland, and different from coastal walks on other islands too.

The rock-formation sections in particular make you stop often. The stones, shaped over long stretches of time by the waves, all take on different forms, and with the sea right below them, the view is dizzying and refreshing all at once. The back-and-forth between forest path and cliff path, then cliff path back to forest, never leaves room to get bored. It's also exactly why it's hard to put your camera down the whole way through.

A Whole Day, Right There on the Island

Geumodo isn't just a trek-and-ferry-back kind of island. Camping and glamping facilities are set up, so you can spend a night on the island after walking the cliff trail. There's a guesthouse too, if a tent feels like too much. In summer, you can try water activities like kayaking or snorkeling, so if you wear yourself out walking, you can cool off in the sea instead.

There are also fishing-village experience programs, letting you get a small glimpse of island life. You can wrap it all up in a single day, but if you're up for it, it easily becomes an overnight trip. Grill something at the campsite in the evening, then finish the rest of the trail early the next morning — that kind of itinerary works just fine. Not having to rush is Geumodo's real charm.

So, When and How Should You Go

Geumodo isn't the only boat-in island around Yeosu. Geomundo is known for its trekking package that runs through a camellia-tunnel forest to a lighthouse, and Sado is famous for its 'miracle sea road' that opens up with the tides. Unlike those two, Geumodo doesn't lock you into a fixed package schedule — as long as you catch the right ferry, you can walk freely and rest wherever you like. Plenty of people plan island-hopping trips linking Sado, Geumodo, and Geomundo together, but I'd recommend properly walking one island at a time rather than trying to cram them all into a single day.

There's one thing I'd tell anyone heading to Geumodo for the first time: don't rush. If you're power-walking because you're worried about missing the last ferry, the view won't register even when you're standing right at the cliff edge. Check the ferry schedule ahead of time, build in a relaxed round-trip plan, and when you find a spot you like along the way, sit there for a good long while. Stay overnight at a campsite or guesthouse and there's no reason to hurry at all. Once the forest goes dark in the evening and only the sound of waves remains, the island shows a completely different face from the cliff views you saw in daylight.

🦦 Real Photos, via Sudal